In 2022 my wife and I travelled to Casperia and back by train (to La Torretta which my aunt/uncle/cousins have run since about 2000). I documented that trip here To Rome and back by train… – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog).
We have just repeated that trip in April 2024 to mark something of a semi-retirement for me. Our route Figure 1 was a little different to 2022 and took in stays in Stuttgart, Innsbruck, Chur, Bologna, Casperia, Genoa and Marseille. It also included a short trip across Lichtenstein ( a first for me).
Thankfully, all trains (19 in total as well as 3 connecting buses and 2 connecting tubes/underground) from Cardiff, there and back, were on time pretty much – only one missed connection that was a minor inconvenience at Ventimiglia and the train onward to Nice and then Marseille. There was only one minor diplomatic incident as well….more on that later!
Figure 1 The approx. 4000km trip
As I did in 2022, I thought I’d write a brief summary using pictures….…and will cover:
- Stuttgart station and gate lines
- Urban realm, density, public transport (PT) and active travel (AT)
- Bus Interchange at Marseille St Charles
- Electric vehicles
- Narrow gauge, Alpine views…and a diplomatic incident.
- Rubbish collection
- Casperia, family and good food
Stuttgart – High speed lines and no gate lines
Stuttgart station is (as may people know) is undergoing a multi £B Euro upgrade to turn it from a terminus station into a through station on a new high-speed line from France and northern Germany to Munich. The Stuttgart-Ulm railway project consists of two sub-projects: Stuttgart 21, which involves the complete reorganisation of the Stuttgart rail node, and the Wendlingen-Ulm new-build line. This is an enormous undertaking, and the cranes and disruption are on full view. This 10Bn+Euro project is at the heart of a metro region of perhaps 5M people. There is ambition here writ large in a clearly very comfortable multi-cultural city.
In contrast the wider Western Gateway area (from Swansea, Cardiff, through Newport to Bristol/Bath) which is circa 3-4M people is struggling to get UK Government to support a much more modest upgrade of its rail network as developed in the main by TfW’s SWML programme.
A stark reality we face, is that the UK is too centralised in London/Westminster/Whitehall; places similar to Stuttgart in the UK just dont have the fiscal fire power and bureaucratic power/authority to pursue such ambitious schemes; and remember Stuttgart already has an extensive local light rail (Stuttgart Stadtbahn) and regional rail network (Stuttgart S-Bahn). I found a similarly ambitious and comprehensive PT network in Lyon which I covered in the 2022 blog.
I have written before about the lack of major PT in Bristol, Leeds as well as Swansea – all stymied by London centric government bureaucracy. Something for a new Westminster Government to properly address
Another key feature of Stuttgart station and many stations on the trip worth noting, was the absence of gate lines which we are so fond of in the UK. I appreciate the revenue protection angle, but they cost to install and operate and for me don’t really send out a welcoming signal and constraint the function of the station. Perhaps better to have more customer service/revenue protection staff and higher fines?
Some context, re UK systems:
Wales, Metro, TOD & Devolution… – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog)
No rail devolution? No Swansea Bay Metro! – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog)
Metro Hopes for 2023… – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog)
Figure 2 Stuttgart 21
Figure 3 Stuttgart Station “Building Site”
Figure 4 Stuttgart Station “Building Site #2”
Urban realm, density, public transport (PT) and active travel (AT)
One thing that stands out at the centre of many older European cities is the density and mixed use of the urban realm. Typically, streets are lined with buildings of 6,7,8,9 stories, with flats, apartments, and then shops & other uses on the ground floor. In comparison most development (esp housing) in the UK is generally low density, green field and car dependant (apart from say London) which has exacerbated and locked in more car use.
In most places we visited, pedestrian friendly public spaces Figure 4 punctuate the urban realm, complemented with ample examples of road space allocated for PT and AT. We need to catch up in the UK and adopt more AT, PT and especially Transit Oriented Development (TOD).
These older blogs of mine might be worth a read on TOD
Transit Oriented Development in the Cardiff Capital Region…. – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog)
Transit Oriented Development in the Cardiff Capital Region #2 – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog)
Wales, Metro, TOD & Devolution… – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog)
It is also clear that in Europe, even relatively small places can have good multi modal PT. Innsbruck for example (which is about half the size of Cardiff) has plenty of rail, bus and tram Figure 5. There are bus/tram stops outside the main station and trams that even head high up into the Alps Figure 11 ! It also appeared to me that the tram/bus integration was helped because they were operated by the same local organisation and even shared a depot! Also, plenty of cycling and AT infrastructure and yes, some e-scooters in play as well. I was also struck by how little traffic we saw in Innsbruck.
Figure 5 Car free public space in the centre of Stuttgart
Figure 6 Segregated cycle and pedestrian route in Innsbruck
Figure 7 Urban density in Bologna
Figure 8 More sensible mid-rise in Innsbruck
Figure 9 Tram and bus stops outside Innsbruck station
Figure 10 More tram/bus stops at Innsbruck station
Figure 11 Free tourist travel in Innsbruck
Figure 12 Tram up an Alp
Figure 13 On street tram stop in Innsbruck
Figure 14 Gentle density, trams and interesting OLE in Chur
Figure 15 Bus and tram stops outside Chur station
Figure 16 Car free public space in Bologna
Figure 17 Mid-rise density and mixed use in Marseille
Figure 18 Tram stops in Marseille
Figure 19 Green tram line in Marseille
Bus Interchange at Marseille St Charles
Given the ongoing discussion re: buses and the bus station in Cardiff I always take a look at what other cities do. In Marseille a number of features stood out that do perhaps, provide a lesson for us in Cardiff and the wider Capital region:
- Not all bus and tram services connect to the main rail station, whereas the local underground did.
- Yes some do (mainly regional services) as part of an integrated bus/tram network so everyone can get to the main St Charles rail station with only limited changes
- The buses that do serve the station were accommodated in a connected and small bus station with I think was about 8-10 bus stands (so similar to the new bus station in Cardiff)
- The wider integrated public transport network adopts a multi-modal capped PAYG system and is based on a “grid” with multiple interchanges around the city Figure 20
Here are some other blogs that might help with context:
Cardiff bus station, bus networks and integration… – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog)
Wales, Transport Planning & Choices… – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog)
Figure X – Marseille Rail Station
Figure 20 Bus stops/bays at the interchange at Marseille St Charles
Figure 21 The wider integrated Marseille PT network (rail, bus, tram and underground)
Apps & Information
Jus a quick note on this. Generally using a combination of apps (transport operators and interrail) and google maps, was more than sufficient to find one’s way around – and plan trips. A task made easier in places that support multi modal PAYG using bank cards. One thing I did observe is the more limited availability of maps (which I prefer) on some apps. Some people like lists of instructions (I don’t) others like to absorb information visually Apps and web sites need to offer both. In terms of onboard information, the Marseille buses were very good with two level information screens that switch between the full route map Figure 21 and major stops (and current location on it) with another more granular local view Figure 22 around your current location with all stops shown.
In terms of rail apps – I found the Frecciarossa app Figure 23 to be the most user friendly and perhaps the DB app as well.
Figure 22 Bus information in Marseille
Figure 23 More granular local bus info in Marseille
Figure 24 Frecciarossa Train App
Contactless PAYG
Some places make the whole travel and especially tourist travel experience, so much easier. Innsbruck ensures all visitors have a free travel pass Figure 10; London, Lyon and Marseille have contactless capped “pay as you go” (PAYG), negating the need for an app or to have to buy a ticket. Good to see this is now the case with Cardiff Bus and is being rolled out on some TfW Rail services. Post bus reform in Wales we need to adopt fully multi-modal capped PAYG. However, places like Paris and Rome still need to go that one step further as they require tickets or app-based purchases.
Electric Vehicles (EVs)
Plenty of debate re EV take up in the UK. However, the greenwashed car industry is generally trying to sell us more, bigger and heaver cars (often wrapped in a financial service product). So good to see a few urban Citroen Ami Figure 24 on our travels. These are a responsible example of the kind of EV we should encourage for city and urban use. They are smaller and lighter so taking up less space and requiring less energy to move. This is in contrast to the souped up over sized and military looking “Wank Panzers” SUVs that are gaining in popularity!
Cars, Congestion, Health and Road Pricing… – Mark Barry (swalesmetroprof.blog)
Figure 25 A Citroen Ami EV in Marseille
Narrow gauge, views…and a diplomatic incident.
We also treated ourselves to a trip on the narrow-gauge Bernina Express. This four-hour 120Km trip started from Chur in Switzerland at 590M, crossed over the Alps and above the snow line to over 2500M, before descending into Tirano in Italy at just 430M. Figure 25 Figure 26. It is often described as one of the “must do” scenic rail journeys for good reason.
The only issue we had was caused by 4 Dutch or German tourists stacking up their cases in front of the window opposite our seats!. It is a panoramic trip with special curved windows to enjoy the view…what on earth were they thinking. Rest assured I addressed the whole carriage to identity the perpetrators and requested they stow their bulky cases under the seats!.
I wonder whether in future we could see electric traction as used on this line also used on the Welsh Highland Railway that with more and faster services could play an even more useful role for local trips as well as being a unique tourist experience (as it is today)?
Figure 26 Bernina Express topology
Figure 27 Bernina Express route
Figure 28 The bag in window incident – once the bags/cases had been removed!!!
Figure 29 Mark up an Alp
Figure 30 Above the snow line on the Bernina Pass
Figure 31 A famous bit of the Bernina route!
Rubbish collections.
Whilst in Marseille we also spotted (at least for some neighbourhoods) the use of community waste collection (and not door to door waste collection). Perhaps we can apply this approach in Cardiff? I think the enormous cost of trying to serve every residence in the city should be challenged and where appropriate replaced with more regular local street/community collections from specially designed and managed waste collection points – perhaps on street corners. You could probably arrange daily collections at these points for less money than it currently costs to serve every house on a weekly or longer basis. It might reduce the problem of sea gulls ripping bags open as well. Food for thought?
Figure 32 Example of communal rubbish collection in Marseille
Casperia, family and good food…
Finally, it is worth pointing out that our trip was about family. A two-week holiday with my wife Geraldine, an opportunity to see my family in Casperia in Italy (my Uncle Robbie, Aunty Mo and cousins Kathleen, Jennifer and Alan – and their families), and once there to meet up with my wife’s siblings & partners who had made their own ways to Casperia.
And not forgetting the opportunity to eat good food on the way! The highlights for me: Great pork, roast potatoes and sourcrout in Innsbruck, fine Italian Dining at De Cesara in Bologna ( I had a rabbit ravioli as well as the Ragu), local rustic stringozzi pasta at Café Ce in Poggio Catino and my cousin Jenny’s specially prepared dinner at La Torretta B&B in Casperia for the whole family!
I did a blog on bread and local food – inc Casperia – a few years ago….
Figure 33 Fantastic and hearty roast pork at Stiftskeller in Innsbruck
Figure 34 Fine dining at Da Cesari in Bologna
Figure 35 Balcony at La Torretta in Casperia
Figure 36 Sunset in Casperia
Figure 37 Amazing carbonara at Cafe Ce (Poggio Catino)
Figure 38 My Aunty Mo and cousins Jenny and Kathleen at La Torretta B&B which Jenny runs – worth a trip for anyone interested!
Figure 39 A family feast at La Torretta
Enjoy….
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